– Travel Adventure on the Polish Coast –

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Part of the adventure of living in Poland is visiting the different ecosystems in this ancient country. There are ancient forests, majestic mountains, rich valleys, and a sea. The entire northern border of Poland is the Baltic Sea, a brackish arm of the Atlantic shared by nine European countries. When Ela suggested we spend a week in the coastal village of Pogorzelica for an early summer holiday, I was excited but a little hesitant.

For a Texan, vacations on the beach happen in Galveston or Corpus Christi where summers blaze too hot and humid for most people enjoy. I hoped the beach was more comfortable in the Land of Vikings. (Oh yes… the Baltic Sea was home to Vikings; coastal warriors from Estonia, Finland, and Latvia were as ‘viking’ as the Norsemen. It was not an ethnicity, but a profession or social status.) The weather forecast predicted temperatures in the low 20s Centigrade (low 70s Fahrenheit) for late June, so we left for the beach before schools let out for summer vacation and before crowds gathered on the coast.

Our holiday in Pogorzelica was eye-opening. The coastal environment was not what I expected; the beaches were backed by lodge pole pine forests that served as a transition belt from the village to the sea. Every day, we walked a kilometre from our rented apartment to the beach. The stroll through the forest set our mood for relaxing on the sand. The piney woods were quiet and clean – just like the beaches.

More Than a Beach

In fact, the forest was home to one of the biggest surprises for me – company recreation facilities. In America, there is not much priority placed on vacation time; most people get two weeks each year. A few travel, some take road trips, but most just rest around the house. But in Poland, everyone gets 26 work days off each year (five work weeks) and employers support holidays with Paid Time Off and company facilities, if one chooses to use them. Back in the days of Communism, the government provided holiday resort accommodations to all workers. They had dedicated compounds with cabins, chow halls, and everything else the average Polish working family needed to rest and relax. We walked past the remnants of a couple compounds on our way to the beach each day.

Many were in disrepair because they haven’t been used much since the fall of Communism, but some remain open for the general public.  Other compounds were purchased by commercial outfits, remodeled, and offered to employees as a company benefit. IKEA has a company campground in Pogorzelica.

Like the spas in Silesia (in southern Poland), the government sponsors activities that contribute to the health and well-being of its citizens. To see the bones of the old Communist facilities made we wonder what life was like back then… and helped me appreciate the freedom we have now.

Private Accommodation

We did not stay at a company facility, but opted for something private. We looked for a small apartment (because we like to cook our own meals) and found one within walking distance of the beach. It was a modern place with a full kitchen, a separate bedroom, a full living room, and a balcony. The apartment was well-managed and modern, and cost ~ 80 USD/night. Relatively expensive by Polish standards, but a real bargain for westerners visiting the Baltic.

Pogorzelica is one pearl in a string of villages along the Baltic coast in the western part of Poland. It’s less than 80 kilometres from the border, so it is visited by many residents of Germany. In fact, there was plenty of signage available for travelers from Deutschland (‘Honey’ is ‘Honig’ is ‘Miod’, I learned); It’s clear our neighbors to the west are an important part of the tourist trade. They are attracted to the area because it’s affordable, clean, and comfortable.

Tourism is growing in the Polish coast of the Baltic Sea. There was a great deal of construction in town; legacy communal camps are being destroyed to make room for updated accommodations that appeal to the vacationing westerner. Not shopping malls or office complexes, but large hotel and apartment buildings for tourists.

Baltic Sea Attractions

It’s fun to travel the small coastal roads to visit Niechorze, Rewal, and other seaside attractions. We walked to the nearest ones and rode bicycles to those further away… all part of our adventure on the Baltic.

Pogorzelica is not as developed as some of the towns along the coast. There was no cinema and only a few restaurants, but plenty of places to buy pamiatki (souvenirs), gofry (waffles), and lody (ice cream). We bought food for our kitchen at convenience stores because there wasn’t a full-sized grocery store in town… and, after a couple days of slim pickings, noticed that they only stocked up a couple days each week. Pogorzelica has only 119 full-time residents, however, so I should not have been surprised.

Besides, no one goes to the Polish coast for cinemas or nightlife. They go to relax on the soft sandy beaches and play on the ocean. Culturally, it seemed a world removed from any other beach I’ve ever visited.

Calm Coast

There was no artificial noise; no boom boxes blasting, no rowdiness or crowd sounds. Instead, we experienced a communal respect for each other’s peace and privacy. Once we were tucked in behind our wind wall (a fabric fence carried by every beachgoer), all we could hear was wind, waves, and squawking gulls. It was not the social scene I’ve come to expect from seaside resorts.

Although it’s sure to be busier when schools let out and families vacation, it was mostly couples on the beach. And we all seemed to follow a similar routine; hike to an empty spot, set up a perimeter, and enjoy early summer days on the Baltic. The Polish beach-goers even dress more relaxed… like this couple; the wife in her bathrobe hammering her wind fence into place while the husband barked at the dog.

And that is probably what I remember best from our adventure on the Baltic; the quiet safety and comfort of the region. We went to Pogorzelica for rest and relaxation… and we got it.

Rejuvenating Routine

Late morning every day, Ela took Ina for a walk while I made breakfast in our room. Then a leisurely walk through the forest on our way to the beach. It took ten minutes to lay out our beach site and then a couple hours basking in the sun… warm but not hot; sunny enough to tan but not burn. Then we might pull stakes for a walk into town for lunch, then return to the beach for more quiet time together. In our backpack, we carried a couple beers and snacks to enjoy in the afternoon. Since the sun is up until 10pm, we might go back to the beach in the late evening.

Repeat the next day… and the day after that. It was not a week full of heart-pumping adventure. Our trip to the Baltic Sea was refreshing, rejuvenating, and a requirement for all future summers in Poland.

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