– Still Relies on Experience –

---

Sixty-eight isn’t old, but I can see old age from here…  and I’m mindful to keep my distance. My body moves well but sometimes complains; it might be a little past its prime. Definitely past roped climbs and long winters alone, but I’m still excited to visit wild places and see things seldom seen. My recent trip to Austria was more than a vacation in the mountains; it was an opportunity to extend a youthful passion into my golden years. I hoped that hiking the Alps could capture my interest enough to become a hobby, and keep me active and fit in retirement.

Planning for Adventure

Every adventure begins with planning and the first burst is always enthusiastically frenetic. One of my favorite things about Adventure is the buzz that comes with ‘sorting things out’… listing what needs to be done and learning how to do those things. For example, I had no knowledge of the logistics involved in hut-to-hut hiking. I’d always camped in a tent on weeks-long treks through the mountains. But with Google, YouTube, and a cup of coffee, I could patch together a plan for almost anything.

Since Austria was closer to Poland than Italy, France, or Switzerland, I selected that region of the Alps for the trip. There was a vast network of established trails that were well-marked and maintained, and hikers stayed overnight in large boarding houses called ‘huttes’. Built in rustic style, they sold meals and beds (and sometimes showers) to hikers and climbers in the high mountains. I learned that huts operated independently, and that reservations were required, and discounts were available to members of the Austrian Alpine Club. I joined the club immediately and learned more from them about organizing the simple but tedious logistics of accommodation.

Then I found out about booking agents. They offered package deals for hikes of various lengths and difficulties, and managed the logistics. It was, of course, more expensive… but within my €100/day budget (for the excursion), so I sorted through a dozen trips to find one that fit my needs. My criteria was simple: not too far too fast, and not too acrobatic.

Laid-back Adventure

I selected two routes; one to do with my partner and one to do alone. Both were rated T3, which was defined as ‘demanding mountain hiking’. Not climbing, but including scree slopes, pathless jagged rocks, and partly exposed pitches with a risk of falling. Some of the exposed sections might be secured with ropes or chains, possibly requiring the use of hands for balance. The hiking was moderately paced; between 5-10 kilometres/day and less than 1000 meters/day in elevation. The booking agent scheduled the accommodations in accordance with my criteria and delivered a wonderfully detailed agenda by email.

We didn’t take tents or sleeping bags (because neither were required for hut-to-hut hiking), so it felt like we were packing light. In fact, my load added up to 7.5 kilograms – just under 17 pounds.

It seemed impossible; I had to check my numbers because I couldn’t believe it was so light. There was empty space in the 40-liter pack… room for ‘extras’, so I carried a big bag of snacks and protein powder. When we left the trailhead on the first day, it felt like I’d packed wisely for the adventure.

Venediger Hohenweg

The Austrian Alps were spectacular. I was spellbound; even after reading about them and watching countless YouTube videos on all things alpine, they exceeded my expectations. The villages along the road to Hinterbichl (our departure point) incited daydreams of living there, if only for a year or two. We passed through three towns between Matreie de Osttirol and the trailhead, and it seemed they agreed to plant the same flowers in every door and window. Pink and purple geraniums billowing out of balcony boxes and patio planters with threads of green ivy that sewed the whole scene together. The rolling pastures dotted with cattle were pastoral illustrations reflecting a heavenly side of our human character. The mountains that surrounded the valley were hidden behind the verdant hillsides but their peaks stirred the clouds pushed through by the wind.

It started raining about halfway up. We were on our way to the Essener-Rostocker Hutte to spend our first night in the Alps. The trail was inviting and easy to negotiate. The run-off from the glaciers above pounded loudly down the slope on our left, but the wet weather limited our view as we gained elevation.

We arrived at our destination pleased with the feel of the trail and the mountains, but disappointed with the cloud cover. It masked our surroundings and the peaks we came to see. The hut appeared suddenly in the rain and fog like a ghost ship from the gloom.

Distracted by Weather

Inside, it was clean and the staff was hospitable. The food was well-prepared and plentiful. The hut had a large monitor on the wall in the chow hall with weather information… and the forecast was disappointing. Rain turning to snow later in the week. The next day looked good, but there followed a long stretch of wet weather.

In fact, the next day was great. The hike up to the pass was invigorating; 500 meters in elevation in less than three kilometres to cross over the ridge at Turmljoch before heading downhill to Johannishutte.

It was ideal hiking. We encountered random challenges that served to break the monotony of counting switchbacks to the pass. The air got thin and I needed to take breaks, but I recovered quickly and was never uncomfortable. It was expected; we were exercising hard at ~2850 meters… it would take a couple days to adjust to the altitude. The T3 trail designation was the right place for me to start.

Hidden in the Clouds

The Venediger Hohenweg was a high trail around the Gross Venediger. It was maybe 40 kilometres in a quadrant from the south of the massif to the east. The first good view of the big mountain was on the descent from Turmljoch on the left as we curled down toward Johannishutte. It was the centerpiece of our trek but we only got a few peeks at it. The cloud cover came in around noon and only opened up enough to allow a handful of pictures. And the forecast predicted it would get worse. It was hard to appreciate the majesty of the mountains when they were obscured by dark clouds and rain. I wondered out loud if it was what we wanted…

The Johannishutte was “dorm rooms only”; six people in slots like a letter box. There were hot showers available and people relaxed on a large patio. Dinner was served at six o’clock and (like almost all alpine huts) it was ‘lights out’ at ten. We shared a dinner table with other groups hiking the Venediger Hohenweg. Gert and Bart from Belgium were great company… fit and full of positive energy, they made easy conversation. They were surprised to learn that we were considering leaving the next day.

“Because of the rain?” asked Gert. He could speak English better than the others.

“Yes,” I said.

“But it’s only rain,” he said.

“Rain for the next four days,” I said. “Maybe snow… temps dropping into the single digits in a couple days.”

Better Safe Than Sorry

And it looked like it would stay that way the following week. I could handle bad weather, but had no desire to spend an entire vacation stomping through rocks and mud. Additionally, it was my partner’s first experience in the high mountains and I didn’t want it to be a bad one. He was happy with his equipment and the trail, but did not want to hike all week in bad weather.

We left the next day and it turned out to be a good decision. The approaching weather system hammered Austria, the Czech Republic, and Poland. We drove home to Strzelin and storms chased us all the way. Gert and Bart finished the hike and made it safely back to Belgium. We could have completed the hike, as well, but there was no chance of me hiking the Stubaier Hohenweg alone the following week. And I would not have made it home before epic floods wiped out the roads in the mountains on the border of Poland and Czech.

The trip was cut short and I could have felt disappointed, but I did not; the trails were scenic and I wanted to see more. It was challenging, so I’ll make a commitment to train harder. And I learned that I will probably get a smaller backpack – maybe something ultralight; I’ll do some research. And that’s okay… buying new gear is one of my favorite parts of adventure.

---